Gypsum wallboard if also known as drywall or Sheetrock
Gypsum wallboard was introduced by the United States Gypsum (USG) company in 1916 as an alternative to plaster for covering interior walls. It was called drywall since it could be installed without water, and also Sheetrock, which is USG's trademarked name for drywall. The product comes in 4-by-8 and 4-by-12 sheets in thicknesses of 1/2 and 5/8 inches and is fire resistant. Special green colored Sheetrock is also water resistant. Installers screw or nail drywall to the house framing and then cover it with tape and mud to form a flat wall.
Instructions
Hanging Drywall
1. Screw full sheets of drywall to the house framing, cutting notches and holes for electrical boxes and other features with a drywall saw. The studs and rafters should be placed to accommodate the dimensions of the sheets so that there is a wooden surface on either edge. Drive the screws around the edges of the sheet and along each stud or rafter, using enough force so that the heads sink into the paper surface without tearing it.
2. Measure areas of the wall or ceiling that are too small to accommodate a full sheet, and cut the drywall to fit. Measure the sheet, then make a line with a straight edge and a pencil. Score the surface of the sheet, then break it along the score line. Finish cutting from the back with a utility knife.
3. Place the sheets next to each other so that the seams are tight, but don't worry if there are small gaps. These will be patched with mud later.
Taping and Mudding
4. Use paper tape to cover flat seams, and metal corner beading to cover outside corners. Apply corner beading by cutting it to length with tin snips, then screwing it to the drywall with drywall screws. Sink the heads of the screws past the drywall surface, making a slight indentation in the metal. Be sure the screws are long enough to sink into the wood behind the drywall.
5. Tape flat seams and inside corners by first spreading a coat of mud along the seam with a drywall blade. Measure out a length of paper tape and rip it from the roll, then moisten it and lay it flat on the mud. Use the blade to scrape along the tape, flattening it and squeezing out excess mud from behind it. Remove this excess and recycle it.
6. Cover the seams, corners and all screw heads with a coat of mud. Spread the mud with a blade and scrape it flat to the wall. Let this first coat dry overnight.
7. Spread and scrape another coat of mud, using a wider blade. When you scrape the second coat, use the blade to feather the edges of the mud into the wall to create a flat, continuous surface. Let the second coat dry overnight, then apply a third coat in the same way.
8. Sand the last coat of mud lightly with medium grit sandpaper prior to painting or wallpapering the wall.
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