Tray ceilings bring life to a ceiling with depth and detailing.
A tray ceiling typically describes ceilings where depth is added or removed through ornamental soffit shapes. These may be square or curved, and may be accented with applied trim boards or applique. These shapes, in encaustic, wood, medium-density fiberboard (mdf), cast or prefabricated plaster are then applied to the new ceiling to cover up seams or imperfections and accent the new shape. Historic or historic-looking spaces typically have ornate ceilings. Some historically sensitive interiors require it by local ordinance.
Instructions
1. Measure the horizontal location of your framing with a tape measure. Typical offsets from walls are 12 to 24 inches. Mark this as the finish location equally from all walls. Plan tray-ceiling depths, which generally range from 6 to 8 inches, so as not to interfere with the use of the room or with doorways. Mark this depth equally from all corners of the walls and ceiling.
2. Measure lengths of 2-by-4 framing boards to cut into place. This framing supports all gypsum board at the midpoints and corners. Nail or screw the framing to the wall with a power drill or hammer, spacing the nails or screws 16 inches apart so they align with the studs in the walls. You may need to make use of a stud finder or drill some exploratory holes to find the studs behind the drywall. Align all framing to the lines drawn on the ceiling and the walls.
3. Measure equal lengths of 2-by-4 boards to meet another 2-by-4 acting as a corner. Cut enough framing boards to space them 16 inches apart, aligned with the studs, to help support the vertical- and horizontal-finish gypsum-board surfaces. Test-fit the corner and cut framing in place with a level to determine areas that are out of square. Plan on using shims later to fill in any gaps created as you level the 2-by-4 boards.
4. Fasten the cut 2-by-4 boards to the corner 2-by-4 on perpendicular sides. Use the square to align all framing boards as you fasten them. Use at least one fastener at each end of the cut framing to secure it to the 2-by-4 boards on the wall and ceiling. Shim the framing so that it is square, and then fasten it securely. Repeat this for all sides of the room.
5. Measure and cut the gypsum board to wrap around the framing side and bottom. Score the gypsum board on one side with a utility knife and a straight edge. Bend the gypsum board along the scoring for a clean break, and then cut the other side along the crease created by the bend with the utility knife. Visually align all fasteners -- screws or nails -- with the framing, as you fasten the gypsum board to the framing. Use caution in spacing the fasteners to prevent distortion or bending of the gypsum board and make finishing easier.
6. Cut and measure the corner bead to fit all corners of the rough tray ceiling. Fasten the corner bead in place. Use caution to avoid damaging finish surfaces.
7. Fill in all gaps and seams with a layer of joint compound. Allow it to dry and sand it prior to applying a second layer and sand again. Allow the compound to dry prior to painting. Wipe the sanded compound with a humid rag to collect dust that may interfere with paint adhesion.
8. Prime the tray ceiling surfaces with a brush and allow to dry. Two or more coats of primer may be needed depending on the rough surface. Once all primer is dry, paint with finish paint per your color scheme. Two or more coats of finish paint may be needed. Keep a damp rag handy for cleanup of paintdrops.
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