Framing a wall or ceiling for drywall is very similar to normal 2-by-4 wood frame construction. However, there are a few extra steps that are needed so that the gypsum board covering can be installed in a way that the finish coats of plaster can be easily applied and will not crack after the room is painted or wallpapered.
Instructions
1. Go ahead and frame the walls in a conventional matter, placing the vertical studs 16 inches on center. This includes a bottom plate, two top plates, double posts around doors and windows, and cripple and jack walls framed in the same pattern as the rest of the room. Don't forget that the first stud in each wall is placed 16 inches on center from the outside edge of the bottom plate. If this is not done correctly, the rest of the measurements will be off, and each piece of sheetrock will have to be cut an extra time before it is screwed into place.
2. Check all vertical corners to be certain that there is a pair of vertical framing members in each corner. Often there will be one vertical 2-by-4 stud, but a second member will be necessary to make for a tight corner. When you install the second 2-by-4, make sure it sits on the bottom plate in the same manner as the rest of the vertical framing members. Do not turn the board sideways to create a larger nailing surface. The 1 ½ inches on the narrow edge is all that you need. Toe nail this board by placing six nails at the bottom and top juncture.
3. Inspect all closet areas to see everything has been correctly framed. Be especially mindful of all corners which may need some extra vertical pieces. They can be installed as in step 2.
4. Block in for horizontal seams that occur in wet areas such as around a bathtub and shower. If you are installing "green" or "water resistant" sheetrock around a bath (this is standard operating procedure), you will need to add extra 2-by-4 blocking, wherever the sheetrock forms a horizontal seam. This blocking should located be exactly four feet above the tub, with the center of the blocking right at the four-foot mark. Nail each block as best you can, and you can use shorter nails (#12), if you have to.
5. Add extra horizontal blocking for any area that is designed for tiles to be placed on top of the sheetrock. Again, block for any horizontal seams with the center of each board falling on the four-foot mark as in step 4.
6. Add horizontal blocking for the whole room, if you have vertical studs that are 24 inches on center. Chalk a line at exactly four feet and ½ inch down from the ceiling around the room, and then add blocking. If your room is taller than eight feet, then chalk a second line at eight feet and ½ inch. The extra ½ inch is for the ceiling sheet rock. Don't forget to hang the sheetrock on the ceiling first, before you begin with the walls.
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